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The world's oceans are in constant flux. Winds and currents move the surface
water causing waves. Ocean levels fluctuate daily as the sun, moon and earth
interact. As the moon travels around the earth and as they, together, travel
around the sun, the combined gravitational forces cause the world's oceans to
rise and fall.
Imagine the earth covered completely by water. As the earth spins, this
water is balanced evenly on all sides by centrifugal force. The moon has a
gravitational pull on this layer of water as it orbits the earth. This pull
causes the water to bulge toward the moon. Because the earth is spinning there
will be a bulge on the opposite side of the earth as well.
As the earth rotates on its axis, each location on the earth will experience
both tidal bulges. The areas of high water levels are high tides and the areas
of low levels are low tides.
Since the earth and the moon rotate around the sun, there is an added
modifying factor. When the sun and moon are aligned, there are
exceptionally strong gravitational forces, causing very high and very low
tides which are called spring tides, though they have nothing to do
with the season. When the sun and moon are not aligned, the gravitational forces
cancel each other out, and the tides are not as dramatically high and low.
These are called neap tides.
Tides vary from day to day. As the earth, moon, and sun orbit, their
positions constantly shift, causing slightly different gravitational effects.
This causes the tides to occur at slightly different times. Tides also vary from
place to place. Geographical position determines the level of tide. In Northern
California there are two unequal tides each day. In the Gulf of Mexico there is
only one high tide and one low tide each day.
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